When you move from a wet cooking technique, like braising,…
The Bauer Kitchen (TBK) executive chef Brian McCourt is an Irish breakfast specialist. You could even say that McCourt, born in Dublin, Ireland, has puddings, rashers of bacon, pork sausage, baked beans and fried tomatoes in his blood.
The breakfast, available at TBK’s Saturday and Sunday brunch service, is two fried eggs, house-made white pudding, black pudding, rashers, pork sausage, baked beans, fried tomato, mushrooms and toast: it’s “full on Irish,” as McCourt would say. The boudin blanc — or white pudding — is home-made, he adds.
“We make it at the Bauer,” McCourt says. “It’s ground pork, potato flour, soaked oats, pureed onions and a spice blend of mace, nutmeg, ground ginger, ground coriander, white pepper, allspice and sage. It’s all whipped together with salt and then rolled in cling film tubes, poached and cooled in an ice bath. It’s cut into rounds and fried to order.”
The white sausage is essentially a boudin noir without the blood, and it has iterations throughout cookery from French and Belgian to Cajun. The true French version is obviously well-loved: so well, in fact, that it’s protected under European Union PGI, or Protected Geographical Indication, if it doesn’t contain flour and starches.
McCourt, however, stands on no phony ceremony for his white pudding. For him, it’s delicious taste that counts most.
“It’s a taste of home,” exclaims McCourt, who adds that that fact makes it a matter of satisfaction. “There is something comforting about eating something familiar that takes you back to certain moments in your life. And, really, what more could you want for brekkie?”[ Pudding image/O’Dea ]
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