Rémoulade: From Old World to New

Rémoulade: From Old World to New

Usually considered a mayonnaise-based sauce invented by the French — when it comes to sauces, who else? — rémoulade has evolved from being primarily used on meats to seafood; from from its use in the old world to the new.

Many restaurants locally prepare the sauce, including Cambridge’s Blackshop! It appears as a chipotle version served with their fried calamari. (Note that Blackshop’s “Winter Dishes” menu is currently on: pre-set three-course lunch is $22; dinner $33.)

Generally a cold sauce, rémoulade is usually made by adding to mayonnaise mustard, chopped capers, chopped gherkins, herbs and perhaps anchovies. It seems, historically to have started as a sauce for meat but has become popular perhaps with fish.

Elizabeth David, in her book French Provincial Cooking (1960) calls for chives and tarragon — likely because that is what Larousse Gastronomique (1938) calls for. David says the sauce is less rich than mayonnaise because of the acidity added. Rémoulade is often more red or tan coloured with the use of paprika and Worcestershire when treated in the style of Creole cuisine.

[Image: Alupus via Wikimedia Commons]


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