Cambridge Indian Kitchen Tries To Find Its Groove

Pak Indian Kitchen & Sweet House
Address: 656 King Street E, Cambridge (P)
Open: Daily with varying hours
Cost: Dinner for two before tax and tip: $35-$45
Contact: 519-342-3755; pakindianrestaurant.ca

Amuse-bouche: Relatively new restaurant located in the former Groove Kitchen in Preston serves Indian and Pakistani dishes in an informal setting. The pakoras were a favourite.

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Indian food continues to tantalize taste buds and test the diner’s perspicacity when it comes to the often complex layers of spicing that can be involved when this great cooking is done properly. Ingredients for a single dish can often combine a dozen or so spices, and it takes a discerning (an impossibly so?) palate indeed to differentiate from among the cumins, corianders, cardamoms and cloves—and that is just the “Cs.”

Ultimately, the proof is in the aloo tikki and makai na bharta: the popular myth is that Indian restaurants and their curries, for instance, are the more often consumed comestible in England than that country’s iconic fish and chips.

The cuisine of the Indian sub-continent draws a similar interest in North America and in Waterloo Region. Curries and Indian restaurants draw local taste buds and appeal to a wide range of diners. New ones pop up as regularly as a puffy pakora or naan from the side of the tandoor oven.

Cambridge has its share too with a relatively new addition on the main street of Preston called Pak Indian Kitchen & Sweet House. Located in the old Groove Kitchen, the popular pub sadly for many of its food followers and music aficionados closed down several months ago, Pak Indian has kept—perhaps a bit unwisely from a decor perspective—a few of the Groove’s lighting equipment which tends to make the place a bit unsightly here and there.

Elsewhere a mishmash of chairs and very simple and stark decorating, though the large fish tank is quite interesting to watch, is the only (and rather humble) background to a meal—other than Indian television emanating from over the bar area.

The food that makes its way into the dining room, as the eponymously named restaurant identifies, is a blending of Indian and Pakistani, the latter of which includes the stew-like haleem, a meaty lamb, goat, and beef dish nihari and reshmi kabab. The “sweet house” designation directs one to the sweet desserts, such as gulab jamun, the milk-based dough that is deep-fried and served in a sweet (read: very sweet) syrup.

Gulab jumun: a sweet milk and honey dessert.

A vegetable samosa ($1.25), the popular Asian snack food in a traditional triangle shape, has very good green pea and coriander flavouring inside but has pastry slightly on the oily side. Much better are Pak indian Kitchen’s pakoras ($4) which have a pleasant herbal and onion taste and a beautifully crisp fritter bite.

Crispy fritters; oily samosas.

A medium portion of butter chicken ($7), the classic dish of North American Indian restaurants, has, I would estimate, a moderate number of chicken pieces immersed in a deep red sauce that includes butter and cream but also a cashew paste. The trouble is that the sauce is dominated by a strong tomato quality which out-muscles the other more subtle flavours.

Among the greatest attributes of the cuisine of this part of the world are its vegetarian dishes which in the depth and intensity of their flavours is found, often, an equally deep satisfaction in the tummy and the soul. Chana masala ($6) is a medium sized bowl of chickpeas, onions, tomatoes and a host of the usual spices. Two positive things to observe about this version: chickpeas that have a decent tooth and bite to them and a balance of spice flavour.

Smallish portions of chana masala and butter chicken.

Aloo tikki ($4) is another vegetarian dish—this time potatoes—that rings true at Pak Indian Kitchen with its depth and comfort-food quality. The bigger gun of chicken biryani ( $9) is delicious fried basmati rice that is excellently spiced and visually appealing in confetti colours. The trouble was the half-dozen pieces of chicken that were overcooked, though it was a generous portion.

Other than a garlic naan, keema naan and a other tandoori breads and their cousins, I think the restaurant could be a bit more creative in figuring out how to work naan onto the table without charging $1 for a small piece.

Smaller restaurants often struggle when it comes to service—not necessarily in the personal qualities but in their professional approach to training staff to be able to communicate and liaise between the kitchen and dining room.

The lone waiter at Pak Indian was extremely courteous and friendly (and sought answers when they weren’t readily on the menu)—and had been on the job for only two shifts. I have no issues with learning while you work, I’ll point out. But proper training is critical, especially when what you serve to customers has the complexity and unique characteristics of Pakistani-Indian foods. Fingers crossed at Pak Kitchen.

Unique way to drop the bill.

Pak Indian Kitchen is Halal. There is no liquor served.

I have no idea what this was ... except that it was very sugary.

Restaurant reviews are based on anonymous and unannounced visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Listen to “The Food Show” Sundays at noon on 570 All News Radio. Andrew Coppolino can be reached at apcoppolino@rogers.com.

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